Yoke recommendations

[rottenlungs]

Hi all

I am looking at potentially replacing my CH Flight Sim Yoke with something a little more solid. The current yoke would probably end up in the right seat of my light-twin sim.

Does anybody have any recommendation. I would probably have a budget of up to NZ$600 - about 450 or so US$.

I could almost afford PFC Cirrus Yoke for this money. Are they any good? Are there any competitors out there?

There`s also the Elite Yoke for what looks like a little less coinage than the PFC one.

I have the Saitek throttle quads and am pretty happy with them , however I`ve heard mixed opinions of the Saitek Yoke.

NB, please bear in mind that the outcome of this discussion will need to be signed off by the CFO, I mean the Mrs, so slick and compelling grovels gratefully received!

Thanks in advance

James

[Michael Carter]

Yoke/control columns are not hard to build. You could purchase a real Boeing yoke with all switches and wired for under your dollar amount and have enough left over for material to build the column, mount, and electronics.

Have a look around here and if you don't see something, ask! http://www.angelfire.com/il2/aphs/ Airline Pilot's Historical Society.

There's also a very nice yoke available by a member here, but there's nothing like the feel of a real yoke under your fingers. The heft, look, and feel of the Boeing yoke is hard to replicate.

[Kennair]

Hi James,

For a light-twin sim you'd probably be looking at something like a Cessna or Beech yoke. For those dollars, the Hungarian manufacturer Routech (http://www.routech.ro/) make a very solid Cessna yoke, or PFC do really lovely Beech & Mooney yokes (at a premium though), but you can buy just the yoke without any mechanism if you build your own. The cheapest option for a Cessna yoke would be Simkits (http://www.simkits.com/), although it is plastic and a bit flimsy (I know because I use one).

As for the Saitek yoke problems, I avoided those last year due to this, however I think they fixed the errant joystick problems from December. Check out their forums to find out.

Having said all that, the old CH yoke when removed, painted black and mounted on your own yoke system can come up a treat, and at very little cost!

Ken.

[ddimm]

I agree with Ken on the CH Yoke Product. I modified the heck out of mine by replacing the springs, extending the tube with 1/2" galvanized pipe , painting, and adding a trim wheel kit. It now feels much more like a light aircraft yoke.

[QF6228]

I agree with Ken on the CH Yoke Product. I modified the heck out of mine by replacing the springs, extending the tube with 1/2" galvanized pipe , painting, and adding a trim wheel kit. It now feels much more like a light aircraft yoke.

That modification sounds interesting, Any chance of some pictures?

Damien

[rottenlungs]

Hi everyone and thanks for the feedback.

I`m really interested in the mods you done to the CH yoke, Ddimm, would you be able to post any more details? Basically the aileron axis pot has died on mine so if I could refurbish the electronics, soften the springs and add some damping I could be persuaded. Its worth a try as the alternative is replacement anyway.

I would prefer a panel mounted yoke rather than a floormount (airliner style) yoke. I`m slowly building a KingAir 200 sim so this would be more appropriate.

I will checkout the Routech offering - I`ve not heard of them before.

Anyone else with feedback on the PFC offerings? I am planning to get the yoke mechanism behind the panel so a fairly long 'tube' and quality bearings would be essential.

I suspect the bearings would be the problem with extending the CH yoke tube..?

Thanks everyone.

James


I agree with Ken on the CH Yoke Product. I modified the heck out of mine by replacing the springs, extending the tube with 1/2" galvanized pipe , painting, and adding a trim wheel kit. It now feels much more like a light aircraft yoke.

[Michael Carter]

I'm afraid I mis-understood your post. i thought you had two sims, an airliner and a light twin and was replacing the airliner yoke with something more substantial. Then using the old yoke in the twin.

A column-mounted yoke certainly wouldn't be correct for a King Air.:oops:

[ddimm]

James -

Unfortunately no pixs (yet) but I can describe what I had done. I unscrewed the face plate of the yoke (8 screws) and cut the wires to the left and right handles. Be sure you mark what side they went to. (they are also color coded) Push the wires into the yoke's tube. I used a Dremel to cut the outside of the tube that meets the yoke. Unscrew the the plastics round plate that secured it to the yoke and remove the small piece of tube. I took this to my local hardware store (Home Depot) to the plumbing section. I found they sold 1/2" threaded galvanized pipe with threads on both sides. It comes in several lengths. (I choose 7"). Extend your wires that you cut and run them thru the end of the the galvanized tube. The threading will screw into the end of the tube of the flight yoke with a little extra effort. Put the yoke onto the extended length of the tube and screw the small plastic end back onto the galvanized tube. Run the wires thru the round plastic plate and screw back in. Your yoke should now be secured back on your extended tube. Reattach your wires and replace your
face plate. It should be good to go at that point!

Replacing the pot should be no problem. Just open the main case and replace it. Maybe you can use another pot inside the case like mixture or pitch.

I replaced my springs with something a little heavier (again from Home Depot)

I wired in a trim wheel mod kit from www.desktopaviator.com

I hope this helps.
Daniel

[rottenlungs]

I'm afraid I mis-understood your post. i thought you had two sims, an airliner and a light twin and was replacing the airliner yoke with something more substantial. Then using the old yoke in the twin.

A column-mounted yoke certainly wouldn't be correct for a King Air.:oops:

Hey no worries at all. To be honest I hadn`t thought for one moment that my sort of budget would allow for the purchase of some original equipment. Now that I`m back from work, I`m off to check that link you mentioned. It would be very nice indeed to build a 60`s jet. I have always thought that I would build a sim around the Maltby BAC 1-11 one day and original parts take the fidelity of the sim up a fair few notches.

Daniel, I`m guessing the threaded pipe is the sort of stuff used for plumbing right? That`s a good idea. I have a couple of these pipes floating around from renovating my bathroom - I wonder...??!

Thanks again everyone.

James


Thanks again everyone.

[AndyT]

James,

Now you're getting the idea my brother. Using some left over pipes from a plumbing replacement is an excellent move. The kind we love to see around here. Now if you can just figure out how to use the livingroom for a hangar without the wife catching on.... :D

'Dear, why does the sofa have a bunch of switches on the arms...?'

[rottenlungs]

James,

Now you're getting the idea my brother. Using some left over pipes from a plumbing replacement is an excellent move. The kind we love to see around here. Now if you can just figure out how to use the livingroom for a hangar without the wife catching on.... :D

'Dear, why does the sofa have a bunch of switches on the arms...?'

Hehe! The way I convince the Mrs is by pointing out that I could be 'down the pub, drinking the money away'; at least this way she knows where I am!

I think it is the combination of computers, traditional workshop skills, aircraft and electronics that really appeals. We all need our metaphorical (and in some cases literal) garden sheds!

Cheers

James

[Kennair]

Hey James,

Here's a LINK (http://www.mycockpit.org/photopost/member.php?uid=2188&protype=1)to a fellow builder who's modified a CH Yoke as suggested, and would you believe he's a fellow country member from NZ no doubt.

Ken.

[ddimm]

Hello James -

Here are a few pix of the 1/2" threaded galvanized pipe inserted in the CH Products yoke. I hope this helps.

[rottenlungs]

Excellent. Thanks Daniel. So 1/2 inch pipe neatly fits into the inside diameter of the existing tube. How do you find the movement? I have already had to grease the plastic bearings that the yoke tube runs in in an attempt to make it smoother. My fear is that significant increase in the distance from the yoke to the front bearing would increase the moment on it and hence friction..

Kennair, nice link. I have seen SKA200`s Kingair pics before. If I get anywhere near what he has achieved I would be bloody delighted!

Thanks

James

[ddimm]

Hey James -
The plastic on the existing yoke tube is just soft enough to screw the galvanized pipe into without cracking or breaking. The movement actually feels better since I added the 7" extension to it. I greased the plastic tube parts just to be sure was no additional friction with the added weight.

I was thinking about replacing my yoke before I did this. Since the whole mod only cost me $US6 (pipe, duct tape, wire) I have save myself the $150+++ on a new yoke.