Using a CH TQ unit "under" custom TQ housing

[767300]

Hi guys,

Im thinking of using a CH TQ unit as the base for my 767 Throttle assembly. I have 767 Levers I purchased from simparts.
http://shop.strato.de/epages/15465782.sf/en_IE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/15465782/Products/767-1000&ViewAction=ViewProductDetailImage

Im thinking of bolting this to the levers of the CH unit and scratch building the flap and spoiler levers. The reversers are built into the simparts levers using levers and a micro switch.

Any thoughts or ideas welcome.

Regards

James

[Rodney]

James,
Are you going to use another joystick card? I have the ch throttle and although I have not opened it up, I would be curious to see what is there. I'm just thinking out loud here if you are going to use the reverser micro's and scratch build the flap and spoiler, then why would you need the ch unit. Just as simple to throw some pots in the mix too. Or it seems to me the way to do it. I'm interested in your outcome. Those are some good looking throttle handles btw.

[767300]

Hi Rodney,

Sorry didnt make myself compleatly clear. I will make the flap and spoiler levers myself and bolt them to the CH TQ unit aswell. Im thinking it might be a more sound approach for me. It saves mapping, pots etc and interfacing. Just plug it in. I could even wire fuel cutoff and parking brake into the CH buttons and map them through FSUIPC via the CH TQ.

Nice stuff on their site alright. Found them very helpful and open to ideas for other products. Cheap aswell!

James

[mounty]

Hi James,

Looked at your picture of the throttle lever. Do you by any chance have a drawing of the construction? Would like a copy if possible?

Thanks

Rob

[767300]

Hi Rob,

I havent done one yet. Its in my head at the moment.

[andarlite]

James

That's the route that I took and I don't really recommend it. I believe there is even some pictures of my throttle if you do a search for my post regarding my 767 Cockpit Progress. Here are some issues you may find:

1) There's not much distance between the CH throttle arms..... assuming that we label them from left to right, #1 to #6, you would probably want to use #1 as your spoilers and #6 for your flaps. That leaves #2 as your left throttle and #5 for your right throttle. The problems here for you is that there may not be enough distance between the #2 and #5 throttle for the 2 throttle knobs. Since I made my own, it wasn't an issue.

2) Once you attached the throttle levers to the CH, you will probably find that because of their weight and the extra height, the throttle action will be very loose and they won't hold their position near the throttle end positions. You will need to find a way to add a lot of friction to the CH #2 and #5 arms. I tried using foam strips (for windows) and they always work good at first for a few days. I even double up the #2 and #3 for the left and #4 and #5 for the right and it still didn't provide enough friction.

3) The throw position of the #6 arm is much too short compared to the distant the real Flap lever travels, so you may find this to be quite unrealistic. I suppose you could work out something with gears and such but will proabably be a lot of trouble.

4) You also will need to do something with the wires coming from your reverse mechanism. Best bet would probably be to run them inside the CH and wired them in place of a couple of the CH buttons. But the problem here is how would you do it so that they won't interfere with the movement of the CH throttle arms.

Anyway, just some things to think about if you are going this route.

Regards,
Henry

[Paul G]

I'm not sure if the effort is worthwhile either. One fact you really have to consider is the additional weight of your levers compared with those that CH provides. I'm not sure if the friction / tension is adjustable on the CH unit but if not, you may find that the levers become top heavy. Also the spacing is quite different and by the time you've compensated for that you might have been as well to start with your own structure.

Saying all of this, I adapted a couple of old throttles from the X45 joystick set and it works ok. The throttles have to be set in opposite directions, because of the orientation of the throttle. This presented a headache trying to get the response characteristics to match, which I never quite succeeded with.

With hindsight I would have been waaaaaaaay better just building from scratch. Doing so means you can spend far more on the potentiometers, thus end up with a far higher quality response. I plan to build a 777 throttle from scratch using parts in this way. If you're going to the trouble of building a realistic housing, the saving in having a pivot platform with interface ready to go, is negligible in my opinion.

[PaulEMB]

James,

I tried this, but located the CH unit at the rear of the pedestal (under the cover), and linked to an MDF quadrant using aluminium strips - that way you can vary the distance between levers by cranking the strip, have the quadrant looking as you want, and still use the plug & play of the CH.

I think there are some pictures on my site.
In my 3rd attempt, I started from scratch, and just used the potentiometers close coupled to the levers.

[767300]

Thank you all for the advice.

So based on this solid advice I will scratch that idea. In regard to pots, what spec are people using? What interface are folks using in general?

Thanks again guys.

James

[Paul G]

When I say high quality pots, I dont' have a specific brand or model in mind. I'm just thinking that the type you can buy from an electronic supplier is probably going to be better than one built into a throttle at $200.

You need to go for LINEAR (as opposed Logarithmic). If there's 2 at different prices I would say go for the higher priced one on the principle that it's probably higher quality / more reliable.

[767300]

Thanks Paul,

I have a vague recollection of something about 10K or xxxK Pots,

James

[Paul G]

Either 10k or 100k would work if you can calibrate them through software. I would steer towards the 100k though, but can't explain why

[sbecker777]

James,
See how I did what you are trying to do:

http://www.flightdecksolutions.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2013&highlight=

Hope this helps!

Steve

[Michael Carter]

I'm using 10K 100mm linear slide pots manufactured by Panasonic Japan. Others are using rotary pots and one here is using string pots.

What you choose depends upon what sort of mechanical connection you will (can) use.

String pots (and linear transducers) are some of the best potentiometers money can buy. They are expensive because of thier accuracy and repeatability. Often with tolerances of .5% or less. Some cost hundreds.

It wouldn't surprise me to learn that aircraft manufacturers use the linear transducers in fly-by-wire systems. However, I don't know that they do.

Any interface card with axis inputs will allow you to hook up your home-built throttle. Calibration can be done through FSUIPC. Flap gates and all, exactly where they are supposed to be on the throttle.

[767300]

I'm using 10K 100mm linear slide pots manufactured by Panasonic Japan. Others are using rotary pots and one here is using string pots.

What you choose depends upon what sort of mechanical connection you will (can) use.

String pots (and linear transducers) are some of the best potentiometers money can buy. They are expensive because of thier accuracy and repeatability. Often with tolerances of .5% or less. Some cost hundreds.

It wouldn't surprise me to learn that aircraft manufacturers use the linear transducers in fly-by-wire systems. However, I don't know that they do.

Any interface card with axis inputs will allow you to hook up your home-built throttle. Calibration can be done through FSUIPC. Flap gates and all, exactly where they are supposed to be on the throttle.

What mechanical connection have you used on your setup?

James