To SOUTH AFRICAN builders - plzzzzzz

[shearder]

Hi guys (and gals)

I live in South Africa (Midrand) and i am interested to know who has built part or all of a cockpit.

1. What interfaces did you use?
2. did you import or source locally?
3. if locally where?

Thanks a ton in advance.

[Geremy Britton]

I'm taking a guess, but if someones on here they are building a cockpit i would say .. right?

[shearder]

I'm taking a guess, but if someones on here they are building a cockpit i would say .. right?

I would say that is a pretty good assumption. But it is just that - an assumption - as i was directing the question to south africans as i know a lot of guys that sim but haven't built cockpits etc due to costs and R/$ exchange. :(

[fweinrebe]

I would say that is a pretty good assumption. But it is just that - an assumption - as i was directing the question to south africans as i know a lot of guys that sim but haven't built cockpits etc due to costs and R/$ exchange. :(

Hi,

the cost is a bummer with the exchange rate at the moment. That's why I am starting small with a PC9. I am building my own interface cards with a PIC microcontroller so buy mostly from RS Components. They are in Kyalami Business Park there in Midrand.

I find the BU0836 range of joystick controller good value for money.

Depending on what you are planning on building, most stuff will have to be purchased from international sources. If you do build a sim like a B737 keep in mind you will pay a lot on shipping charges. And the Rand is about 60% undervalued at the moment (Based on prices of a Big Mac worldwide) you will pay a lot more for your sim than what others are paying.

[shearder]

Hi,

the cost is a bummer with the exchange rate at the moment. That's why I am starting small with a PC9. I am building my own interface cards with a PIC microcontroller so buy mostly from RS Components. They are in Kyalami Business Park there in Midrand.

I find the BU0836 range of joystick controller good value for money.

Depending on what you are planning on building, most stuff will have to be purchased from international sources. If you do build a sim like a B737 keep in mind you will pay a lot on shipping charges. And the Rand is about 60% undervalued at the moment (Based on prices of a Big Mac worldwide) you will pay a lot more for your sim than what others are paying.

Hi Fritz

Thanks for your feedback dude. Yeah we are stuffed as far as costs are concerned so when someone says "YEAH but it's ONLY $150" hmmmmmm... I see you have made your own PC boards etc for your radios - if i am correct. Are you using any 3rd party interface? Do you have the diagrams for MCP for example for heading, course etc LED readouts? I am not staying true to form in so far as a "realistic" cockpit is concerned - i just don't have the money - but i want some sort of realism purely by not relying on the mouse all the time and while flying to sometimes pause to do stuff and then continue... know what i mean.

IF i knew what i was doing i would probably invest in a PIC programmer too but I don't lol. Do you have your own CNC machine?

[Conri]

Hi there Shearder

I live in Bloemfontein and is going cockpit crazy! Welcome to MC!
I still cant chose wich cockpit to build, but have purchaces a couple of stuff(All overseas)!
1- MCP (Opencockpits)
2- Efis (Opencockpits)
3- Multi-radio (Opencockpits)
4- CH Yoke
5- CH Throttle Quadrant
6- Seitek Rudder pedals

I would strongly suggest that you buy a ready-made MCP. The OC MCP are brilliant, once you get the sioc going for your favourate add-on. The "system Logic" behind the unit is very important!

Mine is set to the PMDG 738, and everything that happens on the PMDG's MCP happens on the OC MCP. I don't know how good your programming skills are, but mine is worse than the crime in central JHB!! I would never be able to programme such a unit, thats why I say get a ready-made one!

Enjoy your journey into cockpit building!!

Conri du Toit

[fweinrebe]

I see you have made your own PC boards etc for your radios - if i am correct. Are you using any 3rd party interface? Do you have the diagrams for MCP for example for heading, course etc LED readouts? ...

Do you have your own CNC machine?

Sorry no diagrams at the moment. I am working on the radio still. My stuff will mostly just work for the Pilatus. I build my own stuff because I love the building part. Sometimes my own stuff might be more expensive than maybe something that can be purchased ready made. But in the case of the radio I know I can build it for at lease 25% of what I've seen for sale on one website.

I am planning to build a CNC, but can't get hold of Steppers and Controllers that fits the price and delivery to Namibia.

Conri actually gave good advice about what to buy if your building a jet sim. You will need to decide on what you want to build and then spend lots of time on research (here on MC.org). Ask questions, there are a lot of helpful folks here. Best is to make sure 100% what you need before buying. Use the Search function. Lots of your questions might have been answered already.

Have you looked at Pete Dowson's FSPUIC already? Also look at the TripleHeadToGo from Matrox for your visuals. Axiz sells it in SA.

[AeroworxSA]

Hi,

Building a Cessna 172 and Robinson 22 using FSBUS and Opencockpits. Building own gauges and display system.

Buying electronic components from Mantech and Communica. Hardware from various sources, including Maizey, Non-Ferrous Metal Works and Model Mania.

Johan van Wyk

[shearder]

Hi there Shearder

I live in Bloemfontein and is going cockpit crazy! Welcome to MC!
I still cant chose wich cockpit to build, but have purchaces a couple of stuff(All overseas)!

Hi Conri

Yes, trust me, if i wasn't retrenched I would go all out. I have been off since January - tough lol i know...

Anyways, I really like the MCP on opencockpits. In fact, if i had the money i would buy TOOO much.

However, the answer you gave confirms what others are saying - import - nothing really locally.

[shearder]

I am planning to build a CNC, but can't get hold of Steppers and Controllers that fits the price and delivery to Namibia.

Now that sounds like an idea for when i start working again!!



Conri actually gave good advice about what to buy if your building a jet sim. You will need to decide on what you want to build and then spend lots of time on research (here on MC.org). Ask questions, there are a lot of helpful folks here. Best is to make sure 100% what you need before buying. Use the Search function. Lots of your questions might have been answered already.
Yes Conri gave some good advice too. I have followed some advice and also some research i have done. So, what i did yesterday is go out and buy a whole lot of switches LEDs, MOM buttons and wire, PC board and I will start making a NON-realistic MCP with just the buttons etc - no readouts. I am going to use an old redundant computer case, lay it on its side and have the top facing me with all the switches on. I will also be using the powersupply in it to deliver the 12v.



Have you looked at Pete Dowson's FSPUIC already? Also look at the TripleHeadToGo from Matrox for your visuals. Axiz sells it in SA.
Oh i have!! GREAT stuff. As soon as i start making money again i will buy FSUIPC software. As far as the triple head to go is concerned, i only really have 1 monitor. Maybe a 2nd if i drag this 14" alongside my 19" LCD. AXIS is 5 mins away from me. Also in Midrand.

Thanks again guys!! EVERYONE has been great.

[fweinrebe]

I'm taking a guess, but if someones on here they are building a cockpit i would say .. right?

The South Africans are coming out of the simbuild closet.... At least there are some more crazy people close by. :-)

[AeroworxSA]

There are a few cockpits in South Africa, I know of a B737 motion sim, a B200 and then the simulators from this guys:

http://www.dooley.co.za/

Look under "MIRAGE" and "SIMULATORS". The Mirage F1 was built in 2003.

[shearder]

Hi there Shearder

Mine is set to the PMDG 738, and everything that happens on the PMDG's MCP happens on the OC MCP. I don't know how good your programming skills are, but mine is worse than the crime in central JHB!!

Conri du Toit

Yep my skills are about the same in terms of programming. I am not afraid of trying anything - ONCE lol

I haven't started building my panel save for the fact i have made an enclosure and funny enough last night i decided on a different design so it is probably a good thing i procrastinated!!

Does anyone know a good site to get circuit diagrams etc for USB interfaces. I don't need much based on a new "cheaper" idea i have using a 2nd KB and 2 donar joysticks. Yes, the end result won't be AS realistic but good enough to stop using the KB. The donar KB will be stripped and buttons on the panel assigned to key presses which means i mirror the actual keyboard presses i use but with a button :) I will go slow cos money goes FAST... I also just bought a Dremel 300 to help with creating the panel/s...

Oh well, this won't be quick and dirty, that's for sure. I just wish i wasn't such an impatient person LOL

[fweinrebe]

Does anyone know a good site to get circuit diagrams etc for USB interfaces. I don't need much based on a new "cheaper" idea i have using a 2nd KB and 2 donar joysticks.

Did you look at Mike Powell's website links:
http://www.mikesflightdeck.com/

DIY USB circuits normally require some sort of microcontroller programming. Then there is the PC side programming as well to interface the board via USB.

If it is not your domain I suggest rather buying a card such as the OC cards or other vendors. They are normally programmed with SOIC or a vendor specific scripting language. Lots of people on this sight that know these scripting, so you'll have lots of help.


For a joystick controller (USB) I highly recommend Leo Bodnar's BU0836(X).

[fweinrebe]

Buying electronic components from Mantech and Communica. Hardware from various sources, including Maizey, Non-Ferrous Metal Works and Model Mania.

Johan van Wyk

Johan you do not perhaps have these shop's telephone numbers or website addresses? Or Google Earth/Maps tags? I want to check them out next time I'm in Jo'burg. I've been to Communica not so long ago but it was about 15 minutes before closing time. :(

Where can one find a good source of Plastics in SA? I'm looking for Lexan sheets and Delrin bars. These can be bought on eBay, but I want to compare if it isn't cheaper fom SA.

[shearder]

Hi Fritz

Mantech is 32 Laub Street; New Centre Johannesburg; South Africa;
Postal Address
PO Box 260455
Excom
2023
South Africa
Telephone Number +2711 493 9307
Fax Number +2711 493 9319
www.mantech.co.za

the other is www.communica.co.za

I can always try and assist as communica are about 10 mins from me.

A place for Lexan is:
44 Harriet Avenue
Driehoek
Germiston
Gauteng
1401
South Africa

P.O.Box 1195
Germiston
1400
South Africa
Contact Details
Tel: +27 (11) 873 7965
Fax: +27 (11) 873 7899
Website: www.crystalite.co.za

I haven't tried them though.

[shearder]

Yes i went to Mike Powell's site. I stached a grand away to buy OC cards and now I went and bought other stuff AND i need a new printer AND i bought a dremel system. So... i am TOO scared to spend any more money - or rather more than i can get away with by trying things for myself...

[Conri]

Hi Shearder

Have a look at www.desktopaviator.com. I use there 2040 boards and they are brilliant for push-buttons. If you add the 2110 puls generator, u can use 10 of the 20 inputs for toggle switches. The 2040 board is 30 euro and the 2110 is 29 euro. Must be the cheapest out there, and very easy to work with!!
Regards
Conri

[shearder]

Ok so... I took the plunge and i guess, in retrospect i could have done this differently because as i was going along I added a lights panel and "engine" panel. Now i know the purists will cringe but hey, I have limited funds and SOME skill :wink: BUT - i could have bought a couple of OC kits for maybe a little more. But that's ok!!

So I basically went with toggles and push buttons in place of rotaries. I used the idea of relays and capacitors to give a momentary key press with a toggle moved up or down. They are DPDT toggles which one side will switch an LED on or off and the other giving a pulse via the relay and capacitor setup. I am also using a power supply from a PC to power all of this.

I have stripped a Dell keyboard and mapped, using a multimeter, all the letter keys and a few others. But anyways, the idea was primarily a basic MCP. Now I also have a light and engine start and shutdown panel with Gear switch.

Now, my question is, I have black and clear perspex cut to size. I just need to drill for LEDs etc. I need some advice.

I have 2x clear and 1x black perspex for each panel. SO the question is, how reflective would an LED be placed in clear perspex - in terms of "bleed" - would it illuminate an area (in the way fiber optics would) larger than wanted? I was thinking of printing the panels and sandwiching between 2 clear pieces OR on black only pasting the panel face on it and spraying clear lacquer over to protect it... any ideas? Thanks in advance.

I have added in the pic of the panel layout. If anyone wants the visio files give me a shout.

[fweinrebe]

Now, my question is, I have black and clear perspex cut to size. I just need to drill for LEDs etc. I need some advice.

I have 2x clear and 1x black perspex for each panel. SO the question is, how reflective would an LED be placed in clear perspex - in terms of "bleed" - would it illuminate an area (in the way fiber optics would) larger than wanted? I was thinking of printing the panels and sandwiching between 2 clear pieces OR on black only pasting the panel face on it and spraying clear lacquer over to protect it... any ideas? Thanks in advance.

From what I've read and tried myself is that clear Perspex does not illuminate the whole panel as you would think it would (refering to your fiber optics example). But to get it to illuminate, you have to sand the Perspex with a fine grain. The roughness will then spread the light a bit and also you have to seal the sides with white paint. You can then paint say black over the white paint (or whatever colour works for you).

Of course the sanded Perpex cannot be used for to top most layer.

[shearder]

Good idea. Thanks Fritz. I shall look around for backlighting threads. Didn't really think of backlighting it but i guess it's an idea i could possibly use :)

Thanks again.

[flyandre]

Hi All,
Also got bitten by the sim build bug. My sim is based on Kingair b200. I am using fsbus cdk and would like some feedback and help from other fsbus cdk users. I used car elect gauges for fuel gauges , Volt meters for load and DC voltage. Open cockpits gauges , washburn ect remote gauges. Throttle quad self made with gears and pots with mjoy 16 usb cards.

Main pc run fs and 3 monitors with matrox triple head togo adapter and 3 mon on second instruments pc. Also Fsuipc and fswide client.

Fsbus NG x 2 and Fsbus DIO64

I would be intersting to talk to fellow builder in SA especially in the gauteng region.

Regards

Andre

[shearder]

Hey Andre

I am just starting to do this lol

Tell me, where did you get your gears from for your throttle quad?

[Mike.Powell]

From what I've read and tried myself is that clear Perspex does not illuminate the whole panel as you would think it would (refering to your fiber optics example). But to get it to illuminate, you have to sand the Perspex with a fine grain. The roughness will then spread the light a bit and also you have to seal the sides with white paint. You can then paint say black over the white paint (or whatever colour works for you).

Of course the sanded Perpex cannot be used for to top most layer.

If you're interested in some of the optical theory behind this, the application brief "Light Guide Techniques Using LED Lamps" is interesting, if somewhat overwhelming. You can download a pdf here: http://www.avagotech.com/docs/5988-7057EN

[shearder]

Hi Mike

Thanks again. What i did was test through some perspex the other day. I also tried the "engraving" to "catch" the light and project it forward - this was semi successful but i think a better engraver or cnc would afford better results. so i am backing clear perspex with black and then drilling and mounting the LEDs in the black layer. the panel front is on normal white paper with black backing cut out for illuminated areas covered by a clear sheet like a transparency type material. The LEDs i am using are not standard, though round in shape the tops are concave which spreads the light pretty well and eliminates the spot for the most part.

i will post a pic when done.

[Mike.Powell]

The local plastics supplier, TAP Plastics, carries "lighting white" acrylic. It is more transparent than standard translucent acrylic. It works well to diffuse backlighting.

[shearder]

I see TAP is only in the US. However, there may also be the same materials at the plastics supplier her in South Africa.

With that said, I will continue along the path i am currently on because i am planning on buying some OC kits and then, if necessary, doing it differently! I believe, even though this "simple" panel setup is just that, simple - using a stripped down keyboard, some relays and capacitors and some push buttons giving me approximately 16 toggles with LEDs and 13 push buttons it leaves me wanting more ;) So i guess the "bug" has truly sunk its teeth into me!

Also, and i know you are tired of hearing this BUT i shall say it - i intend buying your second book - wait, let me rephrase - i intend getting my wife to buy your second book - for ME!! ;)

I see your book will cover I/O. Will there be circuit diagrams for DIY I/O cards?

Thanks again Mike for ALL your help, inpt and feedback!

[fweinrebe]

shearder, If you do find a good plastic provider in SA, please let me know?

And did you see my post about the Light Tape? It think it could also be a used to light up your Perspex panel.

Mike, thanks for the link to: "Light Guide Techniques Using LED Lamps". It is interesting.

[Mike.Powell]

I see your book will cover I/O. Will there be circuit diagrams for DIY I/O cards?

There is a 16-input card, a 32-output card, and a radio head card with a rotary encoder and an LCD character display. These are simple, stand alone projects that demonstrate basic digital input and output, and how to use rotary encoders and character LCD displays. You can use them as starting points for your own designs, or you can use them as they are.

Multiple copies of these cards can sit on a shared RS-422 bus. There is a serial port to RS-422 adapter project. The adapter should work with a commercial USB to serial port adapter, though I've not tried it yet. All project documentation is in the book. This includes schematic, printed circuit board artwork, firmware listing, firmware flowchart, and sample host software.

An input card can be polled to determine the positions of the switches connected to it, or it can be configured to automatically send a message when a switch changes position. Polling is simpler, but slower. Automatic messaging has minimal latency, but requires a port arbitrator (which is another fully documented project) to make sure input messages don't collide.

There are a few other projects in the book as well.

Thanks for asking! ;)

[shearder]

That is fantastic! I saw your book updates and I had to ask when i saw the circuits. As i say, the bug had bitten - my wife just doesn't know how bad this affliction is becomming and i need a remedy ;)

Definitely will be on my bookshelf ASAP - when it comes out!

[shearder]

shearder, If you do find a good plastic provider in SA, please let me know?

And did you see my post about the Light Tape? It think it could also be a used to light up your Perspex panel.



I definately did see the light taper :) thanks.

Fritz, you are in Namibia - am i correct?

I bought the perspex from Maizey Plastics in Edenvale. They are pretty reasonable and the guy offered me details of someone with a CNC if needed - but i didn't take it - was thinking about costs. They seems to have much of, i guess, what one would need.

[fweinrebe]

Ja in Windhoek Namibia.

I visit Gauteng from time to time so its good to know where all the suppliers are. Thks for the Plastics shop.

Also can't wait for Mike's second book.

[shearder]

Not a problem Fritz
They are at http://www.maizey.co.za/ - perhaps you can check the site out and find one that will be closest to where you will be.

[flyandre]

Hi,

Electronics123.co.za they do mail orders as well.

Any other builders willing to share fsbus cdk code ?


Regards

Andre

[shearder]

Thanks Andre. Much appreciated. I know them so i will have a look on the site.

What ratio did you use on the throttles? 1:4 higher?

[robjs1000]

Hi all SA builders, just thought to introduce myself, have been on this website for a while but not in the posting area. Currently building a 737NG (you can see photos in the gallery area listed under my handle). See also the homebuilding section website x-plane.co.za managed by Alex.

Progress mainly in the front shell and MIP with parts designed in CAD and cut on a panel router (wood bits) and a waterjet cutter (plastic bits). Most of my electronic hardware is from either RS Components, Communica, Opencockpits. To keep the cost down I have designed and manufactured most of the multifunction switches myself (piggybacking switch hardware behind one another using a lathe to make shafts and other bits & pieces).

For control hardware I will be using BU086 boards and for more sophisticated controls IO boards from Flightdeck Technology (already use these in my current desktop set-up). I plan to use software known as FSXPAND for the PFD, ND, EICAS displays.

So far am experimenting with MIP & MCP backlighting options (using ccfl tubes) and making annuniciators with integrated LED's. It will take a while to balance all the lighting strengths and to figure an acceptable solution. My first working instrument (a R40 clock !!!) has been installed...

Will post photos of progress as the project comes along.

Rob

[shearder]

FANTASTIC!! If you EVER feel like helping a fellow builder LOL let me know; likewise, if i can help - let me know - I have a company (not my own) in Centurion that will be making panel fronts from Lexan either cut out or not, solid lettering or transparent for back lighting.

Anyways, it is good to know there are other guys in SA doing their thing :)

I am in Midrand. What area are you??

[robjs1000]

Hi, I live in Irene near Centurion, thus not too far, any help or exchange of ideas will always be welcome, if you would like to see real live progress, anytime.
Would be good to understand how you are doing the panels, if you look at my photos on this site you will see an example of the MCP that has a lexan back structure and a 1 mm ABS plastic front in which letters are cut out, thus allowing backlighting to work.
How effective this will be is still a question, but am getting nearer the point to test in different lighting conditions.

[shearder]

I will be in Centurion tomorrow to discuss soome further ideas and get some samples from them tomorrow. This to send to guys, like Matt - on this site, and for my own purposes. Basically they will be doing lexan panel fronts in a number of ways
1. standard - charcoal with white print on a sheet - self cut,
2. standard - charcoal with white print - laser cut,
3. backlight - charcoal with clear print on a sheet - self cut
4. backlight - charcoal with clear print - laser cut

etc...

I would be happy to see your build and show you the samples - if they are completed tomorrow - I am busy with FSBus boards but I am really having a battle etching the boards - more with time than anything else. I will be doing the cockpit out of MDF but only the Captian side. I have 3 PCs that I will be using and also contemplating FSXpand.

Sadly (not really) I bought a Thrust Master HOTAS just before deciding to build the cockpit and this was to replace a standard joystick (logitech). But I guess if i had waited i would have rather built a yoke and throttle quad etc. But I will put these to use and have a cross-over 737NG/Generic cockpit.

Already have 2 x 23" LCDs for front view and a 19" LCD and 17" CRT for instruments ala FSXpand :)

[robjs1000]

I'm on holiday in the Cape at the moment but will be back before the w/e, thus if you want to visit let me know. I can show you what I have done so far with FSXPAND as well.

[shearder]

I'm on holiday in the Cape at the moment but will be back before the w/e, thus if you want to visit let me know. I can show you what I have done so far with FSXPAND as well.

That will be GREAT!!! I am interested in picking your brain on a couple of items. I can possibly be there on Thursday but to be safe I would rather say next week as i have a Stadium Inspection (Soccer City) on Friday and Saturday.

[fweinrebe]

Not a problem Fritz
They are at http://www.maizey.co.za/ - perhaps you can check the site out and find one that will be closest to where you will be.

I was in Cape Town a few weeks ago and visit Maizey in Paarden Island. Got everything I needed.

[shearder]

I was in Cape Town a few weeks ago and visit Maizey in Paarden Island. Got everything I needed.

GREAT news. I found a company that is going to manufacture panel faces from Lexan. They also have contacts for Perspex cutting however, it is with laser and they don't do annealing! So i am trying to find someone else to cut for me.

[fweinrebe]

GREAT news. I found a company that is going to manufacture panel faces from Lexan. They also have contacts for Perspex cutting however, it is with laser and they don't do annealing! So i am trying to find someone else to cut for me.

That's why I am building a CNC at the moment. Difficult to get someone else to do it here.

I am about 40% completed with the CNC. Just need a decent Power Supply and 6 more bearings then I have bought all the components needed.

So the Sim is on "hold" while I am building the CNC. But once it is working I will probably mess up a few pieces of MDF and Perspex before I get it done.

[shearder]

That's why I am building a CNC at the moment. Difficult to get someone else to do it here.


It must be a case of great minds LOL

I have also been planning a CNC. Where did you get your plans? What spindle will you use? I am contemplating my Dremel but again, possibly a cheap router with small bits.. not sure yet.

I am not 100% sure which plans to use - from CNCzone. Planning on size 23 steppers from RS. Not sure 100% though.

[fweinrebe]

I am not 100% sure which plans to use - from CNCzone. Planning on size 23 steppers from RS. Not sure 100% though.

I am building a Hybrid: Rockcliff (http://www.rockcliffmachine.com/index.htm) Model A, mixed together with this (http://www.scribd.com/doc/19530831/Diy-Cnc-Router-Table) one. I am mixing the design to get the best of both worlds. I guess one can call it a pavement special.

The stepper motors (285oz size 23) and controller kit was bought from www.hobbycnc.com (http://www.hobbycnc.com). They ship to the RSA. I bought the Pro version 3-axis.

I've got a Dremel imitation which I want to use in the beginning and then move to a larger router. Some guys use a 800W router.

[shearder]

I am building a Hybrid: I am mixing the design to get the best of both worlds. I guess one can call it a pavement special.

The stepper motors (285oz size 23) and controller kit was bought from www.hobbycnc.com (http://www.hobbycnc.com). They ship to the RSA. I bought the Pro version 3-axis.

I've got a Dremel imitation which I want to use in the beginning and then move to a larger router. Some guys use a 800W router.

Yeah I have seen the rockcliff design. Have you bought the plans for it? I saw someone with a ryobi router - and it seems pretty simple to strip to be used for the purpose. Will you be doing circuit boards too or just cutting perspex etc?

I will check out hobbycnc - thanks for that. I am a bit against using my Dremel but i see a lot of CNC setups using it. Perhaps by a spare one for R300 odd bucks or look in the junk mail.

[fweinrebe]

Yes I bought the Rockcliff CNC plans. It was a good investment for me. I also saw the 800W Ryobi Router used by someone is SA. I have a 1200W Ryobi Router, but don't know if it will fit properly. It has a speed control so it is more flexible.

I am definitely looking at making PCBs. My first real application for my Sim will be to cut the PFD, EICAS and GPS screen areas and the button holes for the MFD buttons and GPS. Then the front covers for the COM and Nav radio. Also of course the outstanding Panel engravings.

That other CNC can also be found at http://computer-numerical-control.wpblogspot.com/. It has some good info and detail that is missing from the Rockcliff CNC. The Rockcliff uses brass ring bearings whereas the wpblogspot one uses small roller bearings.

I also just realised I need a descent Power Supply. So I am ordering some components from RS. Another R1000-00 for that. I was hoping to use a PC PSU but that is not good enough.

[shearder]

Yes I bought the Rockcliff CNC plans.[\quote] I think i may do that too.

[QUOTE=fweinrebe]I am definitely looking at making PCBs. My first real application for my Sim will be to cut the PFD, EICAS and GPS screen areas and the button holes for the MFD buttons and GPS. Then the front covers for the COM and Nav radio. Also of course the outstanding Panel engravings. My plan too!! But i found that there is a woman in centurion that cuts with laser - i don't think she does annealing but i guess i could do that!


That other CNC can also be found at http://computer-numerical-control.wpblogspot.com/. It has some good info and detail that is missing from the Rockcliff CNC. I will check it out. Thanks!
The Rockcliff uses brass ring bearings whereas the wpblogspot one uses small roller bearings.yes i saw that and linear bearings are seriously expensive!!


I also just realised I need a descent Power Supply. So I am ordering some components from RS. Another R1000-00 for that. I was hoping to use a PC PSU but that is not good enough.

It really is MONEY MONEY MONEY.. I decided to get a company here to just make my boards for me - so i will collect 7 boards for around R1300 (to start with - needs around 11) and the rest as the pit grows.

I thought with Xmas coming up and us planning a holiday I better not spend all the money LOL - so i guess the CNC was a good idea but will have to wait for now considering i STILL need switches, knobs etc... what i am battling to find here is 8way rotary switches.

Tell me, what dimensions did you use? As i mentioned i have a company making lexan panels to stick on the perspex but they are battling with the CAD drawings i have - losing the lettering - and they can't print direct from a JPG. SO it's between a rock and a hard place.

[fweinrebe]

Tell me, what dimensions did you use? As i mentioned i have a company making lexan panels to stick on the perspex but they are battling with the CAD drawings i have - losing the lettering - and they can't print direct from a JPG. SO it's between a rock and a hard place.

If you mean the size of the CNC. I made it bigger than the standard Rockcliff. The size of the base is 1m x 610mm. (The standard Rockcliff base is 710mm x 500mm) The workable size I calculated at 450mm x 450mm. Hope it works out.

The PC9M panel I have is 400mm high, so it must fit in there.

[shearder]

If you mean the size of the CNC.

No LOL - i should have been more clear - i mean your cockpit design/spec...

[fweinrebe]

No LOL - i should have been more clear - i mean your cockpit design/spec...

The dimensions is a closely gaurded secret, even for me. ;)

Since the PC-9M is a military plane, most of it detail is not public domain. I had to calculate the size based on a marketing picture and a known object's size.

My cockpit inside will be about 800mm wide. Each pedestal is 140mm wide. The main panel is 400mm high and about 700mm wide. It is slightly wider than the real one I think, but that was to fit it in with the ejection seat built.

[shearder]

The dimensions is a closely gaurded secret, even for me. ;)

Since the PC-9M is a military plane, most of it detail is not public domain. I had to calculate the size based on a marketing picture and a known object's size.

My cockpit inside will be about 800mm wide. Each pedestal is 140mm wide. The main panel is 400mm high and about 700mm wide. It is slightly wider than the real one I think, but that was to fit it in with the ejection seat built.

AH but of course!! Not everyone is building a 737 LOL - well mine is more 737 than generic but caters for both!! Well ordered my boards today... will get them on Tuesday and i ordered another 2 ATMEGA8535 chips for the i/o control boards. SO that means i should effectively have 256 inputs - switches etc, 128 LED outputs, 32 analogue inputs - if i need them all LOL, and provision for (initially) 12 7seg displays. I am planning on another couple of boards but this will keep me WAY busy till next year sometime!! Including the fact i still need tons of LEDs, some components for a couple of the boards, switches and dials etc.

I had an idea for knobs i.e. Boeing styled ones - i took the spray nozzle of a deo can - one of the big nozzle - it is shapped like a knob - not completely round. Was thinking of molding one in resin or wax shape it a little to make it easier to turn if it was a nob and the mold a final positive from resin. Just an idea at the moment!

[capetonian]

I had an idea for knobs i.e. Boeing styled ones - i took the spray nozzle of a deo can - one of the big nozzle - it is shapped like a knob - not completely round. Was thinking of molding one in resin or wax shape it a little to make it easier to turn if it was a nob and the mold a final positive from resin. Just an idea at the moment!

Howzit Boet,

I cast my first transparent (for backlighting) knobs in clear epoxy yesterday.
If you send me a postal address I'll gladly send you one or two to use as masters.

Cheers,

Andrew

[shearder]

Howzit Boet,

I cast my first transparent (for backlighting) knobs in clear epoxy yesterday.
If you send me a postal address I'll gladly send you one or two to use as masters.

Cheers,

Andrew
AHHH dude!! Life saver!! Where did you buy the epoxy from? Builders Warehouse? Anyways - check you PMs i will send you my addy there. MANY thanks!! Hey if you need labels i.e. annunciator labels or normal panels I am busy getting that sorted by a company in centurion!

[fweinrebe]

AH but of course!! Not everyone is building a 737 LOL - well mine is more 737 than generic but caters for both!!

LOL. I am more of a B777 guy. One day.

[shearder]

I like the B777 and strangely enough have been looking for one for FSX because i wanted to add one to my fleet in FSAirlines.net. But alas i could not find a good one so i left that.

Though my cockpit is laid out 737NG style it is purely due to familiarity :) and I know where to reach in an emergency or in a hurry! ;)

[capetonian]

AHHH dude!! Life saver!! Where did you buy the epoxy from? Builders Warehouse? Anyways - check you PMs i will send you my addy there. MANY thanks!! Hey if you need labels i.e. annunciator labels or normal panels I am busy getting that sorted by a company in centurion!

Unfortunately I no longer enjoy permenant residence in the Rainbow Nation but have succumbed to the slightly safer life of The Netherlands, .. since 1987 I must add!

Jawelnofine, ... I picked up my resin at a place called polyservice in Amsterdam. I use their casting rubber and PU resin for scale model building and I decided to try and cast the knobs in clear resin, they pointed out their Epoxy resin to me, ... awesome stuff, as thin as water to pour and as clear as glass when cured. I have some knobs that came with my Symultory panel but they are a bit messy and in beige resin, no good for back lighting.

I decided to cast my own ones after cleaning up one of the above mentioned knobs. They look great and I just need to prime and paint one this coming weekend to see how it will look when a led is placed underneath.

I might cast a few extra ones and flopg them at cost price of the rubber and epoxy to cover my costs and help anyone else out there that wants transparent knobs.

I'll send you a few as an example, do you want transparent or beige?

http://spring-air.com/737_project/knobs1.jpg

http://spring-air.com/737_project/knobs2.jpg

Sorry for the bottom pic, this mik en druk is not the best when you're indoors and at short range.

[shearder]

Unfortunately I no longer enjoy permenant residence in the Rainbow Nation but have succumbed to the slightly safer life of The Netherlands, .. since 1987 I must add! Yeah i realised after checking your profile LOL to find some pics! How is it to get in there?



Jawelnofine, ... I picked up my resin at a place called polyservice in Amsterdam. I use their casting rubber and PU resin for scale model building and I decided to try and cast the knobs in clear resin, they pointed out their Epoxy resin to me, ... awesome stuff, as thin as water to pour and as clear as glass when cured. I have some knobs that came with my Symultory panel but they are a bit messy and in beige resin, no good for back lighting.

I hope i can find something like that in SA without having to sell the other nut for this cockpit ;)



I'll send you a few as an example, do you want transparent or beige?
Transparent would be great so i can toy with the lighting before making more. You are a gentleman sir!! Thank you!

What electronics are you using? I am using FSBus. Hey i think Rob lives in the Netherlands - FSBus man. I thought it would be cheapest but you know what after all said and done perhaps only slightly!!! So we learn.