Dualencoder with pushbutton

[Georg Schneider]

:pHi all friends !

I just want to share some pics of my DIY build CTS288 dualencoder with
pushbutton.

The first encoder that sits in the backplate of the panel is drilled
through with a 1,6mm drill and looses the switch therefor.

I made a bushing on my lathe to connect the 1,5mm rod that goes through
the first encoder with the second encoder.
The second encoder has still his switch functionality.

Here are 2 pics;)

Enjoy

http://www.simcockpitshop.de/Bilder/dualencoder2.JPG

http://www.simcockpitshop.de/Bilder/dualencoder3.JPG

Kind regards
George

[Trevor Hale]

Slow and steady in the drill press, but looks like a great solution. Great stuff.

Trev

[wannabeaflyer]

Hi George quick question did you have to dismantle the encoder before drilling through the shaft or were you able to drill through the shaft and sacrifice the switch without any bits floating around inside the encoder ? nice work by the way have a few encoders i got off ebay and this may be the answer to my problems regarding dual encoders :-)

[Georg Schneider]

Hi wannabeaflyer!

Yes: first step is to dismantle the encoder.

loose the 4 little metal clamps on the sides carefully.
Bring in mind how the encoder is put together so you have no problems
to get it back together:D
Bring off the silver metal clamp from the top plastic and take out the rod.

Now you need a lathe to cut the little 2mm piece which is normaly clicking
the pushbutton.
Then drill a hole of 1,6-1,7mm through the shaft.
But be carefull that your drill is exactly in the middle of the shaft.

Now you must drill a hole with 2mm diameter through the plastic backplate of the encoder right in the middle.
Do not wonder when the little pushbutton springs out;)

After this step you can remount the encoder.

For the inner rod i use 1,5mm spring steel rods.
They are really sturdy!
Meassure out the lenght you need and cut a piece off.

To get the second encoder binded with the inner rod you need
to drill you a bushing on the lathe out of aluminium
with 17mm lenght and one hole with diameter 6,4mm on one side
and 1 hole with diameter 1,6mm on the other side.

Every hole is drilled 8,5mm deep to the center of the bushing.
After that you need to drill 2 holes for the M3 holding threads.

To hold the 2 encoder together i used 2 plates out of 1,5mm aluminium
and glued it together with epoxyd glue.
Thats only for testing because i want to be able to change the encoders
in future and will do it with 2 alu plates and spacers.

I hope i helped you out a bit and hopefully somebody understands my English:D

Kind regards
George

[ian@737ng.co.uk]

hi guys.......
leo bodnar has a new product in his stable (sorry george, i know you've spent a lot of time and effort in getting your dual encoder up to speed).
he's introducing the new ELMA dual encoders with push switch into his range. i'm lucky enough to have the first pair out. lovely quality, exceptionally nice 'feel' and we can work with them.
have a look at this thread: http://www.mycockpit.org/forums/showthread.php?t=15958
now i can get the EFIS working exactly how it should :o))
enjoy tomorrow chaps.... ian

[Georg Schneider]

Hi Ian:D

Nice to hear from you ! Missed you in Lelystad last year:(

Yes i have seen Leos encoder post.
But i dont think these encoders work directly with the opencockpits mastercard.
They have 2bitquadrature code.

My post was intend to show people who have some spare CTS288 encoders
how to make a dual one out of them that works 100% directly with OC
mastercard.

Have you made a test with the Elom encoders?
Any results?

Looking forward for some more infos.

Kind regards
George