View Full Version : Extending CH Yoke?
No Longer Active
05-09-2010, 01:25 PM
Hello,
Can anyone tell me if extending a CH flight yoke is possible (let's say...by 6 inches), where would you cut the pole, or would you replace the pole with a longer pole instead?
But I am assuming that cutting the pole would be tricky as I believe there are wires passing through, would this be an easy job to do?
Any experiences on this subject?
Kind Regards.
Alex
AK Mongo
05-09-2010, 02:27 PM
Good Question, and one I have been pondering too.
There are wires that pass through it that you will need to extend if you cut the pole and increase the length. I have been pondering whether to extend mine, or just use the CH parts and build one.
Would love to hear what others have done, or thoughts,,,
Sean Nixon
05-09-2010, 02:46 PM
Taking the CH yoke to bits is relatively simple, just remember where everything goes to help put it back together again. Apart from a pozi screwdriver to get the case apart, all the wiring is on plugs, the entire yoke dismantles/reasembles dead easy.
This may be of use...
http://www.kennair.com.au/yoke.html
ddimm
05-09-2010, 03:01 PM
Hi Alex Jay-
I explained how to extend the CH Yoke in this thread.
http://www.mycockpit.org/forums/showthread.php/12001-Yoke-recommendations?highlight=ddimm
It is really easy but just be sure to mark each wire properly for reassembly.
Good Luck.
No Longer Active
05-10-2010, 04:52 AM
Hi Thanks for the replies.
I was indeed thinking of just replacing the tube in its entirety, as this may be easier than cutting a tube and extending it.
Thanks for all the ideas's including dimm's yoke idea, and glad to know that it has been done before, before I hack the heck out of it.
Again, love the spring replacement idea.
Thanks again for all your input,
Kind Regards.
Alex
Ronson2k9
05-10-2010, 02:09 PM
Not quite smack dab in the middle of that.. but very close. I too am replacing the entire tube with a piece of galvanized pipe.. I want to design and build the holder (collar) first. I was thinking of using Teflon Slide Glide (http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/28-453-furniture-glides/teflon-slide-glide-657837.aspx)(the grey plastic stuff). Building a hardwood holder for the material and yoke column. The collar (what you see outside the MIP) and the column lock would be free of the column itself. That is it would ride on the Teflon plastic inside the holder. The holder needs to be strong enough to withstand a bit of jarring should bump it sideways. I've looked everywhere for a collar. I suppose I could turn one out of square piece of hardwood and then drill out the center? I'd much rather buy one though.
If I remember correctly there is no spring return on the actual plane. I would think though there is the pinwheel effect when in flight of the control surfaces wanting to go to a neutral position. This force would marginally increase based on airspeed over the surfaces. During taxi though the surfaces would be held in place by muscle power. Especially the elevator. I've heard that you can literally fly with one finger. So I have an alternate idea. No spring return but a mark on the yoke column to indicate a neutral position. This isn't completely accurate of course but should get it pretty close to neutral. Perhaps one more mark for the locking position.
OR...
Perhaps instead of no spring a very light spring.. Bungee cord. To add a bit of resistance but not nearly the resistance you get with the current CH...
Look forward to what you come up with Alex..
Cheers
Ron
ddoth
05-10-2010, 07:20 PM
In flight, small corrections can be made with an index finger and your thumb, though the column itself doesn't move much at all.
Flaring involves a lot more force but not enough for two hands and a lot of movement happens.
Extremely slow airspeeds, the column is light and big devations are easily possible.
Taxi-ing on the ground however, the elevator can get wild due to slipstream (especially when stopped). Enough so that holding it still with one hand is extremely difficult. Its not heavy but the forces are crazy