Single seat cockpit

[Shawn]

More progress today

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/1007/37171649.jpg

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/6103/kamloops2011070900099.jpg

[Ronson2k9]

Looks pretty slick. Ronson like..

[Nick1150]

WOW that's going to be soon a great toy !!!

[Shawn]

This started of tinkering with some ideas and ended up being a parking brake/landing gear lever. I just have to add the walnut nut and a plate for the gear detent.

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/6705/kamloops2011071000102.jpg

[Ronson2k9]

Um a parking brake for a Helicopter?

[Shawn]

Who said it was a helicopter pit? ;) I'll fly just about anything so I'm making it a multi use pit, the collective will rotate out of the way when flying fixed wing. The parking brake is also going to work as a progressive brake lever that you pull and move to set the parking brake.

Edit: some helicopters have wheels...

http://www.instablogsimages.com/images/2011/03/11/threewheeler-helicopter_tAfPD_3868.jpg

[Ronson2k9]

Oh I know some have wheels. I have a feeling and could be wrong that they don't have brakes for them? Great that you're making a multi use pit. What I was thinking though it was going to be like a half and half (left side aircraft/right side rotary). You could also do something like THIS (http://www.mycockpit.org/forums/showthread.php/22975-What-happens-when-a-Helicopter-and-an-Airplane-give-birth?highlight=) to. Not sure if they use this for fire spotting it perhaps is bit slow for that but has great visibility so could work if they where at a fire base near the fire for keeping track of crews and the like.

Just a couple more thoughts. I notice you have a 'floor' but you could make a 'sub floor'. This would let you put your collective and rudder peddles and associated mechanics beneath you. With a strong enough frame you could add wheels to make it pretty mobile or at least able to move about easier.

Great work so far though I like your engineering skills...

Cheers
Ron

[Shawn]

Thanks Ron, my engineering skills look better when you take the photos in a dark garage with a cell phone. I am planning to put a sheet metal cover over the cyclic gimbal that will run from the botton of the seat forward, over the curved frame. Wheels are a good idea, I don't have much room in my basement so being able to push this thing around would be ideal. I am planning to build a seperate monitor/switch framework that will sit in front of the seat and hold a single monitor that will display GaugesFactory guages and a few switches/rotaries to control some more common functions. I'm having a blast finally getting to build something.

Years ago I designed a Sikorsky R-4 for Fs9, it had a parking brake on the floor.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20110712-00107.jpg?t=1310479039

[roppeca]

Awesome , awesome !

[Shawn]

Thanks Roppeca, I pretty excited to get the Hall effect sensors installed into the stick and give her a go! I made some changes to the pedals so that I could make some small adjustments to the pedal distance.

http://www.mycockpit.org/photopost/data/535/Kamloops-20110713-00111.jpg

http://www.mycockpit.org/photopost/data/535/Kamloops-20110713-00115.jpg

[roppeca]

Good work !...hall effect sensors instead pot's ( old tech )... good , but they make a lot of noise and they are very sensitive to temperature changes . Is that a reliable tech that works perfectly in that application ?...just a question jeje , by the other side : What happens when a heli and a plane give birth ?...Very easy : Planecopter :the beginning !...congratulations , go ahead !

[Shawn]

I have heard from a few sources now that the hall effect sensors might be a little noisy but I'm hoping that hooking them up to the Bu0386X with it's signal filtering will be effective in reducing or eliminating that issue. The pit will be in my basement and won't see much fluxuation in temps so again hopefully that isn't much of an issue. I'll be sure to post my findings. I'm hoping to finish the pedals this afternoon, the wife is away for the day so I have all the time in the shop I need. :p I changed the control arm so it looks a little less bulky and drilled out the large gear to fit the bolt I am using as a shaft.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20110715-00116.jpg

[roppeca]

Go ahead ! Finish your work and I'll be waiting for the results...jeje !

[Shawn]

I got the pedals painted and the pot installed. There not the prettiest pedals but there rugged and they should do the job for years. ;)

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20110718-00121.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20110718-00122.jpg

[roppeca]

Enjoy that great work...greetings !

[Shawn]

I've got a couple of days home alone so I'm working on the cockpit :p Not much to update yet but I've got a few more days ahead of me...

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20110718-00123-1.jpg

It's going to be a generic sim so I decided to go with the standard 6 pack of gauges plus a fuel gauge and radar altimeter. The panel will be a separate free standing piece. The wife said it would be alright if I used the HDTV (outside visuals) for testing purposes. ;) Everything will be painted black eventually. The rotary encoders for the instruments is the next task I have planned. I realised today that I'm really not that interested in flying, it's the building part that I really get enjoyment from.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/panel.jpg

Couldn't resist testing out a few gauges. The bezels are much thicker than I would have liked but it's PVC pipe? Sanding down the edges might help a little.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20110722-00129.jpg

[roppeca]

Fliying or building...you are doing a great work and that next task will be an interesting part of that single seat cockpit...good lock !

[Shawn]

Thanks Roppeca. The "Gauges Factory" gauges are fantastic, smooth, great graphics and networkable. Just wanted to post a quick video showing them in action. Anyone building a twin piston pit would have everything they need with these.

<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/IplXQRzab6w?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[sacad]

This is great !!

[Shawn]

Painting helped blend the bezels and panel a little, couldn't help but build an engine panel, that will give me some room for a flap gauge and a few other odds and ends.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20110723-00135.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20110723-00138.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20110723-00133.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20110723-00131.jpg

[Shawn]

I've been messing around with Google Sketchup trying to figure out a plan for the collective. Once you get the hang of it you can put stuff together fairly quickly. I modelled aircraft in FSDS for years so that might have helped a bit but it's really pretty straight forward.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Simulator%20plans/Collectivelinedrawing.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Simulator%20plans/Collective2.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Simulator%20plans/Collective1.jpg

[Anderson/SBSP]

Amazing!!!

[Ronson2k9]

Very nice work.. You're pretty good at the cad/sketchup? I've been using blender for all my stuff.

[Shawn]

Actually I can't take much credit for this work, Google Scetchup has a huge library of 3D objects that you can download directly into your project. I didn't make any of the complicated parts, it was more like putting a puzzle together than anything. :p

[Shawn]

I had a look at what the pedals I have already built would look like set up as dual pedals.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Simulator%20plans/pedals.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Simulator%20plans/pedals2.jpg

Shawn

[RojanTrojan]

This is absolutely superb work Shawn. I love work like this, it's innovative and refreshing to see. I didn't know about the 'gauge factory' either. Thanks for the heads up. I use Simkits gauges for my simulator but I would love to go down the LCD gauges root at some point. How smooth are they? They look pretty good on the video you posted. I'm with you on where you have said that "it's the building part you enjoy the most". It's the same for me to.

Keep us posted. It's looking great.

Rhydian

[roppeca]

Well Shawn...let me try to fly a chopper in my sim jeje...I have never tried until now ! All this for to have a wide sight of your project...you are doing the best in the building part...go ahead !

[Shawn]

Nice to hear that you guys are enjoying the thread, I'll keep posting photos of my progress then. I'm planning to build both a collective and throttle quadrant for the pit. When I do fly it's rare that I don't switch aircraft 3-4 times. The Guage Factory gauges are very smooth, even across a wireless connection, I do plan to see if there's any improvement on a wired connection but I am quite happy with there performance now. I put an offer in on another computer tower on kijji, hopefully I get it because the wife's not to keen on me using her laptop to run gauges on my simulator:roll:

If your interested in some challenging helicopter flying check out my website, I designed some remote helipads for instant scenery that are good fun to try and land on.
;)

http://www.wildfirepilot.com/web_images/fsx_2009-06-28_00-19-56-45.bmp

[Shawn]

Not much of an update but I bought a second computer for displaying gauges of Kijji, the guy was asking $75 and gave it to me for $50. Its actually an identical version of my first computer so they even match. My only problem now is that both displays are going to be covered so starting up the gauges, shutting down the computers etc is going to require removal of the panels? My only thought is to hinge the panels at the bottom and hold them in place on top with thumb screws? Any other suggestions? There's no way my wife won't catch me if I try and buy two more monitors :roll:

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20110727-00153.jpg

[Ronson2k9]

The monitors should be able to survive on all the time. If there is a power failure or something like that well then you would need tor turn them on again after. Depending on how new they are perhaps. If you are going to house them in a MIP then you will need to be able to access the switch in some way. Depending on where the switch is for the monitor. Kinda makes you wish they put all the stuff on the back now doesn't it :)

I'd think of the switch access as a bit of an emergency access. You won't need it all the time but you may need it sometime.

If you feel adventurous and want to take the monitor(s) apart you may find this series of monitor power switch repair (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXAQxwCTuuI) useful. You could move the switch to a more remote location perhaps. Or conversely you could look for a monitor(s) that already have that. Where the switch is behind the monitor. My wifes LG is like that. The power and other adjustment buttons are on the monitor support column. I'm thinking that someone (a few) here have moved the power switch elsewhere as I can't see a person with a 737 cockpit crawling under to turn on there MFD's. So I'm sure it's not only possible but has been done a ton of times by other sim folk. :)

Cheers
Ron

[Shawn]

Thanks Ronson but my issue is with seeing the monitor for starting up programs? With the panels installed I have to guess at where the folders are. The material I built the mip from is soft enough that I can actually just push on the panel where the monitor on/off button is and it works.

[Ronson2k9]

If the computer(s) is FSX dedicated then you could have FSX/FSWide boot from startup and then you don't need to go into folders and the like. It will boot up already loaded. Just add FSX or FSWide to your startup folder in windows to have it boot at startup.

[Shawn]

I'll look into adding the gauge files to the startup menu, that would save some effort setting things up. I got the engine panel almost finished, added a single com/nav radio and the weather radar, just have to cut holes for the buttons.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20110728-00161.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20110728-00167.jpg

All the photo's I've taken so far have been with my blackberry and don't do the gauges justice. It's not that easy to take photo's of a computer screen but after a few attempts I think I got a decent one. For those interested in these gauges I've attached a link to a high resolution photo. Laurent did a fantastic job and I hope we see more freeware gauges from his shop.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG_3256.jpg

[Shawn]

Just let me know when you guys are tired of me updating this post twice a day ;) I got a hydraulic dampner in the mail this morning. Eventually both sides of the pedals will have one but I wanted to make sure they were going to work before spending more money. They fit as planned with more than enough clearance. I think two will provide some decent resistance to the pedals.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20110729-00174.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20110729-00178.jpg

Shawn

[roppeca]

That hydraulic damper will add a lot of real effect..good idea !...Shawn, still posting , knowledge is knowledge and as I said , thanks for sharing ! ( by the way , beautiful garden , jeje ! )

[Ronson2k9]

Never going to get tired of the updates so long as you find time to do them. Every bit helps. Not only us but others that may want to build something similar. Nice addition with the dampers.

Cheers
Ron

[Shawn]

Just playing with ideas

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Simulator%20plans/Room4.jpg

[Ronson2k9]

Floor is always cooler then desk. Cold air sinks. So I would put the computers on both ends of the LCD TV cabinet. That also puts all the cables behind everything too. So a power bar and so on could go in the middle of your LCD cabinet and the associated control cables for all your hardware seats and so on go forward. If you want your Helo and non Helo seat to be interchangeable then a interface plug in/USB Hub could be a good idea. Then you could connect/disconnect the one your using/not using and set it aside.

You could also hook in DVD player to watch your favorite flight DVD too. When you need to kick back from all the work you've been doing. LCD tv's have a multitude of input choices. You could run S-Video (Super VHS) out of the DVD player and two RCA/monster audio cables from there to watch your movies with.. So win win and win. :)

As my sim is in my living room I already have a TV for movies and the like. My sim video will be dedicated to sim unless my TV breaks down then there could be trouble. :) My 'regular' TV is a 32" sharp CRT that has never failed once but it's not a spring chicken anymore.

So..

- Coolness keeping your sim computers cool is important
- Modular (plugs and clips) to make changes fast and painless.
- Concealment. To keep cats/dogs/kids from tripping and or yanking/chewing on cables and to keep things neat and tidy.
- wireless mouse and keyboard would also be useful.

Looks pretty cool..

[Shawn]

I have been working on the idle release mechanism for my generic cockpit. I've still got some work to do but I thought I would share the progress so far.

The button consists of a bolt, compression spring, washer and a rounded off nut.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Idle%20release%20button%20tutorial/IMG-20110901-00237.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Idle%20release%20button%20tutorial/IMG-20110901-00238.jpg

The throttle handle is a piece of aluminum tube (seatpost from a bike) with a hole drilled to allow the bolt to fit through. The collective shaft is a section of steel tube with an outside diameter that closely matches the inside diameter of the seat post. I drilled and cut a notch in the collective shaft that allows the rounded bolt to slide inside, a short section of the notch is left skinnier than the rounded nut so the button must be pushed down to allow the shaft of the bolt to slide through the constriction.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Idle%20release%20button%20tutorial/idlerelease1.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Idle%20release%20button%20tutorial/IMG-20110901-00232.jpg

Its still not as smooth as I would like but I have a few ideas that I will try to smooth out the action.

Here's a short video showing the throttle in action.


http://s1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Idle%20release%20button%20tutorial/?action=view&current=VID-20110901-00024.mp4

[Ronson2k9]

Pretty cool vid. I've never been in a helicopter I could touch the controls of so I don't know if the throttle is spring loaded or not? Looks good though.. If a solution isn't found readily perhaps you could look to a motorcycle throttle. Just a thought.

[Jess]

Shawn,
I notice you are making a generic flight deck so what I'm about to say may not apply to your aircraft(s).

Although your idea for the idle "stop" portion of your collective lever will work, the button assembly will not mimic the real throttle/detent correctly if you are planning to use it with say the Bell 206 or the DodoSim 206.

In your layout, for starting the engine, it appears that you have to first push the button and hold it down to roll the throttle from the "off" (closed) position to the idle position.

In the real 206 aircraft, the button will already be down, (pushed in and held by the mechanism) when in the "closed throttle" position. So when you introduce the fuel to start the engine, you roll the throttle grip towards the idle position until the button "pops up" on it's own.

Just wanted to clarify for those who might be building for the Bell 206 type.

Jess

[Shawn]

Crap, I couldn't count the number of times I've been in a Jet Ranger during startup and always thought the were pushing that button down to roll the throttle to the 6% mark. I guess I just assumed that because they had there finger on the button, they were pressing it as well. I know the pilots are always ready to roll the throttle off in the result of a hot start. Thanks for the clarification Jess, I'll see if I can't fix this with some JB-Stick weld and a file.

Shawn

[Shawn]

I gotta thank you again Jess. The fix was easy, I just filed down the constriction to open up the slot and re-filed a new slot at the end, I also got the added bonus of a few more mm's of travel for the throttle control.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnhJtVqvAfk&feature=youtu.be

Quick question, how do I embed youtube video's into a post? Got it, I was using the wrong code.:roll:

Thanks
Shawn

[Shawn]

I wrapped the throttle handle in cork and finished the button (bolt) with JB-Weld and smoothed it with a file and sandpaper in my drill press. I painted the button and then tried a coat of clear lacquer, it gave it a nice shiny look so I think I will finish all the parts this way.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20110904-00241.jpg

The holes for the buttons and encoders have been cut in the co-pilot panel and the first coat of paint applied.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20110904-00239.jpg

It's soon going to be time to warm up the soldering iron, I'm really looking forward to trying out the radio and weather radar with working buttons. :cool:

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20110904-00240.jpg

[Shawn]

I drove for 7 hours today to go pick up my new (new to me) lathe. As far as I can tell it's in excellent shape, it runs smooth with no vibrations or odd noises. It needs a good cleaning but I'm really looking forward to learning more about this new tool.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Emco%20Unimat%203/IMG-20110907-00245.jpg

I couldn't help myself and had to turn one piece before I started the cleanup of the unit. I wasn't happy with using a bolt for the button on my throttle release mechanism so I tried turning a new one, a little more practice is required but I can already see the potential ;)

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Emco%20Unimat%203/IMG-20110907-00244.jpg

While I'm here, I finished the two panels, just need to start on the main panel that these will insert into.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20110905-00243.jpg

[Ronson2k9]

Very nice work. Your lathe looks cool. There are definitely times I wish I had one of those.

[Shawn]

Finally got the pedals finished, sturdy but not much to look at I'm afraid. Beauty is in the eye of the builder I guess ;)

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20110923-00265.jpg

[Ronson2k9]

Where did you get the aircraft tie rod ends if I may inquire. Still nice looking foot pedals.

[Shawn]

Princess Auto here in Canada carry a selection of rod ends, it's becoming my new favorite store for simulator parts. I buy the threaded rod in longer sections and just cut to length what I need.

[Ronson2k9]

I'm in Canada too that's why I asked hehe.. There is a Princess Auto not to far from my home.. :) thanks for the info.

[Shawn]

Got some more work done on the cyclic gimbal today. The adjustable cages for the hall effect sensors were installed and a quick coat of paint to clean it up a bit. No one will see the gimbal when I'm finished but it looks a little better with some paint. It should also keep the inevitable beer spillage from rusting the metal.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20110924-00268.jpg

[Shawn]

I got this idea from a member over at hovercontrol. I'm using a small electric motor with a counter weight to create some vibrations in my cyclic. I will eventually connect a toggle switch (hydraulic on/off) to the motor to activate it. The short section of threaded rod was connected to the motor with JB weld bond, a couple of nuts and washers are used for the counterweight. Works quite well, the vibration is noticeable but not overdone.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCrlDzIRbmE

[Ronson2k9]

You could add a rheostat (DC Power control) to your throttle/collective control and as you increase throttle or collective the vibration could also increase.. A volume control (pot) on a bass shaker in your seat would also add to that. Pretty innovative. I also love stuff you can add to your simpit that you don't need to interface with your computer.

Cheers
Ron

[Shawn]

Good idea Ronson I might just have to give that a try. I've already built the tactile transducer, it will chatter your teeth if you have the volume turned up to loud. :shock: This will be the last update for the weekend, I welded up the base for the collective, the plan is for it to be a standalone unit that I can put away when I'm flying fixed wing.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20110925-00270.jpg

[Ronson2k9]

Hey did you ever watch this show 240-Robert (http://www.240-robert.com/) when you were a kid? The same guy that made "CHiPs" Made this one after it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0QXTLvktOY

[Shawn]

I have seen that show, didn't remember it until I saw the video though. Got a bit more work done this weekend.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20111001-00294.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20111001-00297.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20111001-00295.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20111002-00302.jpg

[Ronson2k9]

Looking quite cool...

[Shawn]

I got the pot for the throttle installed this morning. It is connected to the idle release button via a short section of plastic hose. I wanted to try this first to keep things as simple as possible but I wasn't sure how much pushing the button would bind up the gearing, the plastic hose worked better than I expected and there really isn't any noticeable additional friction when the button is pushed which results in the hose moving away from centre. I borrowed the gears from an old printer, they don't provide much additional rotation of the pot but I'm getting close to 180 degree rotation would should be tons for the throttle.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Collective/IMG-20111014-00320.jpg

I didn't like the original cover for the collective head so I made a new one today, just needs a roughing up and then some paint and my collective is pretty much done.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Collective/IMG-20111014-00322.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Collective/IMG-20111014-00323.jpg

[Shawn]

Slowly but surely. I have a new appreciation for those of you building full pits with all the bells and whistles. The commitment would be huge.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Collective/IMG-20111016-00337.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Collective/IMG-20111016-00338.jpg

[Ronson2k9]

looking super cool. Don't worry your patience will be rewarded.

[Shawn]

I'm enjoying every minute of the build, what worries me is not getting it finished, but what I'll do when it is finished. I'll need to start on a full cockpit after than I guess. :grin:

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/IMG-20111017-00348.jpg

[Shawn]

I got the pitch trim built today. It was finished but then decided that I didn't like the hack job I did on the axle base. I re-built that part and just have to add the rotary encoder back in. It's going to be belt driven, mostly because I had a couple spare pulley's and a belt.

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20111106-00387.jpg

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/Kamloops-20111106-00394.jpg

It was built with 1/4" PVC board, I really like working with this stuff. It far better than wood or MDF as far as I'm concerned. Once it's glued together with PVC glue the joint is as strong as the original material.

Shawn

[Shawn]

I wasn't really happy with the gimbal that I built for my cyclic, so I started work on a new stick. The universal joint is hardened steel so it can't be drilled, I used a dremel tool to grind a hole in both sides so that I could insert two bolts that will hold the hall effect sensors.

Grinding the holes through into the centre spider took a bit of time but once I got threw the hardened steel I found there were small holes already in the end of each spider arm.


http://youtu.be/sXcrJAUqjo8]http://youtu.be/sXcrJAUqjo8

The bolts will be epoxied into place eventually but the friction fit is already fairly tight. The aluminium plates will be used to hold the hall effect sensors, the magnets will be placed on the body of the U-joint.


http://youtu.be/YeV4A-XZ--A]http://youtu.be/YeV4A-XZ--A

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/New%20Cyclic/Kamloops-20111109-00401.jpg

Shawn

[Shawn]

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff438/shawnLund/New%20Cyclic/Kamloops-20111110-00405.jpg

[Ronson2k9]

Looks great. I wish I had your welding skills. The welds all look amazing.