MDF over LCD for MIP questions

[jrowland]

I think I'm going to go this route in my generic GA pit... I've got a 22" LCD to use for the MIP. I've been pouring through the photo gallery and searching the various threads looking for information. I've got 2 main questions for the moment:

1. My monitor has about an eighth-inch gap(?) between the actual LCD screen and the raised part of the bezel... meaning, if I lay a non-cut piece of MDF across the face of the monitor, there is a 1/8" space between the wood and the screen. Is this "normal"? It seems that if I don't cut the MDF to fit inside the bezel, then I will see... glare?... through the holes that I cut out, coming from other parts of the screen. I'm not sure if I'm asking this question coherently. Obviously, I want my MDF to be a bit larger than my overall monitor so that I can have a bit of a curve on the top corners. So... how is this gap dealt with? Or, is it normal?

2. If I want to attempt to install rotary knobs for the altimeter, heading indicator, VORs, etc., is there enough space behind the wood (see question 1?) to allow for the back sides of the knobs and wiring? I was intrigued by this photo (http://www.mycockpit.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=4348) in which Peter_Pilot seems to have accomplished this very feat.

Any other bits of advice before I start measuring and cutting? :^)

[Geremy Britton]

you need to remove the frame of the computer monitor so it goes right up to the back of the MDF, then there is just the thickness of the mdf in the way which you can live with or use some tinted acrylic which works very well for me.

hope that helps

[notgotaclue]

In answer to question 1. You can remove the bezel from most monitors, this eliminates the gap completely.
It is pretty easy to remove, just a few screws and it usually just clips off.

[Jess]

If you click on my website below and scroll down to about the middle of the page you can see how I handled that very problem. For switches and knobs you are probably going to need a little space between the overlay and the LCD screen for the wires. If you need more info just ask.

-Jess

[smendlik]

If you click on my website below and scroll down to about the middle of the page you can see how I handled that very problem. For switches and knobs you are probably going to need a little space between the overlay and the LCD screen for the wires. If you need more info just ask.

-Jess

What switches did you use for your MIP? The shallowest ones I can find are .4” thick, much more than the .125” of your MIP.

Thanks,
Steve

[Ronson2k9]

That is something to consider. If you are adding switches/knobs to your MIP then you will need to allow room for them. There is also a natural gap from the front of your instrument panel to where the gauge (instrument) actually sits. There is a bezel around the gauge much like a SLR camera lens. This gap helps to shield light from coming in and making it hard for you to read the gauge (in an actual plane). Unlike in a car when you are above the clouds there is no shade save that of the glare shield and the frame of your aircraft.

So first figure out what you also want to put on your MIP (Knobs/Switches) and the depth they will need to be installed including the wiring as 'Jess' had said and then you can figure what your gauge bezel distance will be. That bezel usually protrudes forward out of the MIP about 1/16" to 1/8". Think of the MDF/Masonite as a holder for your gauge bezels and your other difficulty will go away. No need to remove the LCD bezel (monitor bezel) unless it takes up more room then you have in your MIP. Gauge bezels can be made from plastic drinking cups (the top) or hand made (turned on a lathe) or bought as a flight sim item.

Even if you can't decide what you would like to add to your MIP for gauge controls now the space behind will make it that much easier later.

[Jess]

What switches did you use for your MIP? The shallowest ones I can find are .4” thick, much more than the .125” of your MIP.

Thanks,
Steve



Steve,

That sounds about right for the push button switches that I used, but I also turned a couple of aluminum collars that the switches fit into, which makes the wire connections "flush" with the back of the overlay panel. For my main fuel switch, I built it pretty much the same way, with a painted wood spacer.

The rotary switches were from Goflight. They came attached to a small circuit board that I trimmed down and epoxied to the panel so the wire connectors would be flush with the back of the overlay.

I'm not sure if GoFlight still sells those anymore.

[smendlik]

Thanks for the replies, I think I just need to buy some rotaries and get busy now!

[Peter_Pilot]

Any other bits of advice before I start measuring and cutting? :^)

I did remove the plastic case from the monitor but only because it was not needed. Then I used a sheet of acrylic which had rectangular holes cut in it at each encoder, then the sheet of aluminium with the round holes for the instruments. The fake instrument mounting screws actually clamp the aluminium and the acrylic together. I did need some thin spacers to move the panel far enough away from the LCD screen to be able to fit the encoders but it wasn't a lot.

Let me know if you need any more specific information or photos.

Peter.