home made tq and yoke

[davemuir]

hi
just finished testing home made throttle quadrant and yoke
lower control columb needs to be trimmed and boxed in
if you would like to see it in operation please go to you tube
and type in - davemuir tq -
any questions regarding the build i will be very willing to help
regards
dave


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vfFIjnJ6fs

[Matt Olieman]

Nice video :)

I hope you didn't mind, I embedded the video in your post.

Matt Olieman

[davemuir]

hi matt
many thanks for embedding the post
i have another video of the finished control columb uploading at the moment onto you tube
the 2 items were made completely from recycled materials only the ch yoke and leo bodnar basic
interface card was bought
regards
dave6213

[gazbar]

Hi, Great work. I am going to start my TQ at the weekend.

Garry

[tennyson57]

Hi Dave,
That's a top class job there, mate.

I think if you got one of those nice 737 yoke heads from Ricardo at Throttletek.com, you'd have a beautiful, professionally finished yoke.


Frank Cooper

[davemuir]

Hi Frank
Thanks for your info on the yoke head, i will look into it at throttletek.com .I will be starting the second yoke this week as i now have another ch control wheel which i bought of ebayuk
secondhand a few days ago -then mip and overhead.
its just getting the time to do it as i am an aircraft engineer at edinburgh airport and work isvery busy at the moment
anyway mate thanks for your kind reply .
cheers for now
Dave

[davemuir]

Hi Gary
Many thanks for your kind reply.
if you need any help over the course of your tq build just email me at davemuir5@gmail.com
or through mycocpit.org
Today i was on a simulator using a 4000 pound motorised tq through project majenta and the only difference
from my home built one was that my one wasnt motorised which can be done in the future -
all i can say is never give up and try to be patient-------
cheers for now
Dave

[stinger]

Hello Dave, thanks for the video,it all looks great,im just trying to get my head round dual linked yokes and am progressing okay after watching goldmembers video many times,can i ask what the 2 springs do? are they there to return the column to neutral? i have also fitted gas rams of 80n force but instead of one on top of the other i have fitted them opposite each other, they seem to work fine but there is no centering hence why i ask the question. thanks in advance.

[davemuir]

hi stinger
sorry for the delay in replying
yes you are correct about the springs it self centers to 8 degrees forward as the real 737 does
the 2 gas struts on the side should be 200nm each i fitted 100 nm each and its not enough as i had a go
on a real 737 sim yesterday.
having 2 struts to the rear is exactly the same as having one on the front and back but my way has an
added advantage in that you have more space to accomodate rudder pedals thats the only reason and its
more compact
also regarding the springs when you pull the yoke back the 200nm resistance is felt and when you push forward to
the nuetral it feels easier as in the real aircraft
hope this helps mate
cheers for now and have a nice day
dave

[davemuir]

hi
this is a little video of the yoke, throttle and center console at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDaKYmjhtHs
also testing out comm 1 radio
cheers
dave

[gazbar]

Looking really good there Dave. Great work

[Westozy]

Dual yokes - I really believe there is no simpler method than this! - Check out the yoke column video here -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exL6H4yP8xc


Cheers Gwyn
Aerosim Solutions

[davemuir]

Thanks gazbar
How is your build progressing ?
Cheers
Dave

[davemuir]

Yeah that looks good but could be a bit costly as I like to try and make parts myself
Thanks
Dave

[Maurizio]

Hello Dave,

I am also trying to make my own yoke from a CH yoke. Can you give me more information about how you connected and how you placed the two potmeters in the new yoke column?
you can mail me directly if you like
thanks
maurizio
gioko@xs4all.nl

[manhattan]

hi
just finished testing home made throttle quadrant and yoke
lower control columb needs to be trimmed and boxed in
if you would like to see it in operation please go to you tube
and type in - davemuir tq -
any questions regarding the build i will be very willing to help
regards
dave


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vfFIjnJ6fs

Hi Dave.

Like the build very much. Can you tell me if the trim wheels work? I am trying to fathom out how fast spinning wheels can interface with FS to alter the trim - or are they for show only?

Thanks.

TONY Plymouth UK

[birdyguy]

Hi Dave,

Great job! Looks good. Would be great to see a tutorial on how you built your yoke, the parts you used , dimensions and where to get them.

All the best,

Ed

[Ashraf.qn]

hi, im doing lots of research and hoping to start mine soon. I was wondering if I could get some advice too. Currently Im looking for an article of any material to explain how the trim wheels are mechanically arranged. I need like a diagram. I have ton of questions. Would be great if you could put me in the right direction. Thanks

[davemuir]

Hi Ashraf
are you looking to have working trim wheels or have wheels on the side of the tq that don't move ?
my trim wheels don't move on my home made tq but they will in the future
i basically have a screwed cap the fits over the threaded bar at each end of the tq then glued the the wheel to the threaded cap if you want some pictures I will send them to you if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask I would be very happy to help - if you loo up 1davemuir on you tube you can see my build so far in my garden shed
regards
dave

[Ashraf.qn]

Hi Dave, thanks for getting back to me. Yea I have a better understanding now. . I wish I can make them fully motorized .. im not an expert when it comes to DIY .. but im ready to learn. Thank you for recommending the you tube vid .. im definitely going to watch it .. would be great if you can list more resources .. im in the learning stage now. Thank you again Dave

BR
Ash

[manhattan]

Hi Ashraf.

Manhattan here! I am modifying 737 trim wheels to function with forward motion for nose down, and backward motion for nose up. The movement will only be a couple of inches either way, and will internally push against a micro switch. This is far from authentic, but at least the wheels will be operable.
The real wheels turn 47 times in either direction to go from fully nose down to fully nose up!!

Just a thought.

TONY Plymouth UK

[Ashraf.qn]

Hi Tony, 47 time! WOW .. nah I would love to get 1 rotation for pitch up and another for pitch down. btw .. do I need to write a program code to get the throttle to work proper?

Im so distracted with all these questions .. thanks so much for your help.

BR
Ashraf

[manhattan]

Hi

Throttles normally work with the use of potentiometers (variable resistance devices). A throttle lever is attached to the potentiometer (commonly referred to as a volume control) and lever movement alters the resistance which affects the engine. You can connect the potentiometer to one of Leo Bodners modules which plugs in to a usb socket.
You can operate the trim wheel a larger rotation if you place the micro switches further apart so that you push the wheel forward or backward the distance between the up/down micro switches.
Normally, the wheels are operated electronically, and can be seen spinning on some real flight video's.

Good luck.

TONY.

[davemuir]

Hi Ashraf
There is a way to connect trim wheels by using the mechanics of a mouse-
if you take apart a computer mouse and use the wheel inside the mouse you
Can assign the wheel through flight sim for the trim wheel movement
Easy and cheap to do ,just connect the small mouse wheel to knex cog

Regards
dave

[Joe Lavery]

Hi Ashraf
There is a way to connect trim wheels by using the mechanics of a mouse-
if you take apart a computer mouse and use the wheel inside the mouse you
Can assign the wheel through flight sim for the trim wheel movement
Easy and cheap to do ,just connect the small mouse wheel to knex cog

Regards
dave

Some people have used multi turn pots, so the wheels can turn many times and the adjustment is more precise. The pots are attached to a board like Leo Bodnars and interfaced via FSUIPC.
The actual build will depend on the TQ design you use.

Hope that helps.

Joe.

[manhattan]

Hi Dave.

Is a mouse wheel a bit too sensitive for any gearing to be attached? Not sure how this works?

TONY

[Joe Lavery]

Hi Dave.

Is a mouse wheel a bit too sensitive for any gearing to be attached? Not sure how this works?

TONY

A mouse wheel is normally attached inside to a small wheel with small slots cuts in it. This rotates between a photo sensor and receiver that counts the pulses created when the transmitted light passes through the slots in the wheel. Other companies use slightly different methods but similar in function.
As with potentiometers, you can calibrate these to suit the application. For example in FSUIPC it doesn't really matter what pot you use because you can calibrate the range it has within the interface.

[manhattan]

A mouse wheel is normally attached inside to a small wheel with small slots cuts in it. This rotates between a photo sensor and receiver that counts the pulses created when the transmitted light passes through the slots in the wheel. Other companies use slightly different methods but similar in function.
As with potentiometers, you can calibrate these to suit the application. For example in FSUIPC it doesn't really matter what pot you use because you can calibrate the range it has within the interface.

Hello again.

I understand how pulses are transmitted via the slotted wheel inside the mouse housing, but cant see how the mouse is connected to the PC, or what physical action (surely not the scroll wheel on the mouse/) is used by the pilot to actuate trim settings? Somehow, there has to be interaction between the trim wheels and the mouse wheel for the pulses to be counted and read in FSUIPC? Can you explain what the physical set-up would be for the hardware involved - eg mouse and trim wheels?

Thanks for the help that You are giving - it is much appreciated by those looking for authentic cockpits.

Tony.

[davemuir]

Hi Tony
open the computer mouse in 2 halfs
and remove the electrics with mouse wheel and attached USB ccable all you have to do is figure out in your home made tq how connect the mouse wheel
to your trim wheel
when the trim wheel is moved it moves the mouse wheel and through the USB connection into you fs computer where you can alter the feel and settings in fsuipc there is no input output card needed
regards
dave

[manhattan]

Hi Tony
open the computer mouse in 2 halfs
and remove the electrics with mouse wheel and attached USB ccable all you have to do is figure out in your home made tq how connect the mouse wheel
to your trim wheel
when the trim wheel is moved it moves the mouse wheel and through the USB connection into you fs computer where you can alter the feel and settings in fsuipc there is no input output card needed
regards
dave

Many thanks Dave.

Cant help mentioning that when living in Perth, I visited St Andrews many times and would love to live there - but costly!

Tony.

[davemuir]

Hi tony
were you working in Perth ? I work down at Edinburgh airport
so it's about an hours drive and your right the house prices are
high because of the universities ,
how long did you stay in Perth ?, I did all my b1 and b2 modules for my Caa engineers
License at scone airport in Perth (AST)
Cheers
dave

[manhattan]

Hi tony
were you working in Perth ? I work down at Edinburgh airport
so it's about an hours drive and your right the house prices are
high because of the universities ,
how long did you stay in Perth ?, I did all my b1 and b2 modules for my Caa engineers
License at scone airport in Perth (AST)
Cheers
dave

Hi Dave.

Not sure when you were at Scone, but I visited the place many times in the 70's. I also flew from Dundee's grass strip to AST and back using the Tay as a guide! I flew over my house in Faries Road Perth and nearly got caught for flying too low!
My wife is from Aberdeen, and we will be moving back soon. On investigation, it seems that one of the most desirable places is your neck of the woods. House prices are very good too!

Happy flying.

Tony, Plymouth UK

[davemuir]

Hi tony
I was studying at Perth about 3 years ago although i have been working on aircraft for the past 30 years i did it back to front i should have gone for my engineers license as soon as i came out of the airforce -i too started flying at Tay side aviation in Dundee although its not a grass strip at Dundee any more but there still is a grass strip at Perth ,I actually took off in a pa28 last year a wee bit bumpy and like you followed the Tay small world eh-
If you are up this way give me a call
cheers
dave

[Ashraf.qn]

I have another question. .. do I need to write a computer program if I want to build a fully motorized throttle quad speed break flaps parking break fuel cut offs .. trim wheels?

Thanx
Ashraf

[davemuir]

Hi Ashraf
you would have to motor the throttles if you wanted the the throttles to move on their own when auto throttle is selected ,
the speed brake and the trim wheels-
the parking brake and fuel cut offs would be micro switches -the flap , I used
a potentiometer
my tq has a potentiometer on the speed brake, throttles and flap lever
the parking brake has a micro switch at each end of travel and the fuel cut off
levers have 1 micro switch each when the fuel cut off is in the down position
the micro switch is made and fuel is cut off-
when the lever is raised the micro switch
opens and fuel is on- all through fsuipc in flight sim
Regards
dave

[Ashraf.qn]

Dave, u r the man!! :) I have another question .. which is better, refurbish an actual 737 TQ or build one from scratch . .. can we setup minor resistance to manual throttle increment at 25% and 75%. If so, how? what electronics do we use? Thanks Dave

Ashraf

[davemuir]

Hi ashraf
for the resistance in my tq I used 2 -
1 inch diameter empty 4 inch long plastic syringes that are connected to the bottom of my throttle handles with 2 welding rods about 1/8 th in diameter
the rods are cut to the right length to connect to the top of the syringes
the 2 syringes are positioned behind the front of lower tq so when you push and pull you get a very good hydraulic damping effect and you get bounce at the idle position
cheap and easy with regards to your question about using a real tq or home made I would say if you can get your hands on a real one go for that but if not
you get a lot of satisfaction making your own and it is easy to do

[muffyman]

Hi Dave I love your home built 737 yoke its awesome I would love to build would it be possible to get some advice cheers Ian

[davemuir]

hi ian
thanks for your message- just let me know what you would like to know and ill do my best to help you
regards
dave

[muffyman]

Thanks for replying Dave would you mind explaining how you took out the ch yoke electronics and adapted them to your 737 yoke build, I was curious if the wiring loom and wires were long enough to go up the yoke leg to the yoke or did you have to cut and re solder wires etc I don't have a problem with the build at present just the electronics cheers Ian

[davemuir]

Hi Ian,
i cut the loom from the ch yoke 3/4 of the way up the columb so that I could feed everything through the top of the right angled part of the yoke then when everything was in place I joined the loom only at that part ,I put in my own potentiometer at the base for pitch and one at the top for roll
easy
regards
dave

[davemuir]

Hi Ian,
I meant to say in last reply that you remove everything from the ch yoke intact- I cut the wires to the 2 grey knobs on the right hand side as you don't need these then when you have everything removed you can see the length you need ,hope this helps

regards
dave

[muffyman]

Hi Dave not knowing anything about electronics all I was going to do is use the components including potentiometers that came with the yoke, I was wondering why you didnt use the potentiometers that came with the yoke? and where I might buy some also with so many wires I am assuming several of each color how did you match up the wires after cutting the loom cheers

[davemuir]

Hi Ian,
When you cut the loom through all you do is join the same wires together with the same colours ,you can use the potentiometers already attached but I decided to use my own because when I was building the mechanical part of the yoke a placed a pot at the lower hinge point for fore and aft as you can see in the you tube video.
All that the mechanical and analogue inputs are from 2 potentiometers , when you remove the ch yoke loom with all bits connected all your interested in is the 2 pots for pitch and roll , the buttons for trim etc are already there you don't have to do any thing with those items .
Regards
dave

[muffyman]

Hi Dave there are 2 questions for you 1 are saying that there are no multipal wires that are the same color in the loom whitch would cause me confusion if there was and 2 since starting this thread I am now considering using a 737 yoke like you have, if I do go down that track instead could you tell me where you purchased your yoke and could you asist with advice in wiring the switches cheers

[davemuir]

Hi Ian,
Basically all your interested in when you remove the ch yoke internals is the loom with the card and 2 pots , the way I connected the lower pot was with knex plastic cogs just eBay the part I placed the small grey knex cog over the pot shaft then the action of the columb going back and forward was connected to a large yellow knex plastic cog when the 2 mesh together then you have the action for the same with pitch and role .
if your on Skype Ian please give me your Skype address and ill give you all the info you need as I'm in scotland and your in Australia -but its not a problem for me.
regards
dave

[muffyman]

Hi Dave my skype id is muffyman1 cheers mate I'll go online now

[muffyman]

Hi Dave my skype id is muffyman1

[davemuir]

Hi all
i would just like to thank everyone for their interest in my home made tq and yoke I didn't realise there would be so much interest, I will try my best to help everyone who needs it-
many thanks
dave

[davemuir]

hi all
just thought i would share a wee idea i have for my next yoke, what ill do is use a spindle from a bicycle wheel I will cut the spokes off then place the spindle in a circular block of wood the block of wood will fit in the top of the yoke all I will do is drill a hole through the center of the wood then cut the block in two, through the center i will fix the spindle in and araldite the two halfs together over the spindle then place the assy in the top of the yoke should work a treat also if you get the shamano hub it has the quick release handle on one side if the threaded bar -drill a hole through this and attach a spring for aileron resistance the rear of the wooden block would also have the pot and 2 knex plastic cogs
regards
dave