Real Throttle and Pedestal conversion project

[tcane]

Hallo All,

I don´t know with the Trimwheels @ the moment. I like the new design much more, but there is also much work to change. I think i repaint only the original. Will see...

For the Lever-interfacing, I will do the same as Beret. Later i go to the FABLAB and made an 3D Print for the turn point in the box and cutting an Acryl with the laser for the Poti- and maybe a Toothwheelsupport.

Because of the motorization:
The problem is also that we need something like a poti for the correct Trimwheelposition. I'm not sure, but I think a stepping motor can still query the positions, or? An advantage would be that you could make the trim manually.
For the Integration: I think something like a Toothwheel from a bicycle that works with the Chain?!

Does anyone know if you can drive a stepper motor, like this one, with a Opencockpits Card?

Cheers Florian

By the way: The last day i pulled out the Throttle from the pedestal, Heavy workload and very much screws. I hope all the Screws find the way back to the right hole.

[OmniAtlas]

Hi Florian,

There is no need to build toothwheels or a chain to drive the trim wheel shaft. I have seen photos of our fellow cockpit builders, also with genuine throttles and they have mounted a motor directly to the shaft.

Regards,

Ben

[tcane]

Hi Ben,
The Chain is already there and for the responsible for the attack of the Trimwheelend. Do you have a link of these photos that you have seen? And which Trim Wheel Shaft did you mean, can you explain it with a photo maybe?

Regards,
Florian

[OmniAtlas]

Hi Florian, check your PM.

[OmniAtlas]

Some more parts to play with --


Radio panel + Switching



Parking brake panel



Captain side flood lighting





WAMCO bulbs to replace the blown bulbs!


This is the flood panel -- I've pretty much figured out all the connections, but one has me really puzzled, the SLIDER/WIPER connection on the pot for the underglare flood light (left pot).

Is anyone familiar with this potentiometer? There is a double redundancy (two pots) connected to the same shaft. 4 wires exit the pots (2 for the top, 2 for the bottom), they are the ends....but where can I find the wiper connection? There are no other wires.

Big mystery...

[iwik]

Ben,
Put a meter across the two connections and turn the pot, resistance will change as it may just be a rheostat. Just a fancy resistor connected in series with the bulbs. Turning the pot changes the resistance and hence brightness. Early GA planes used this method, very crude.
Les

[OmniAtlas]

Hi Les, I think you are absolutely correct - it also looks like a rheostat. I will attempt to wire directly.

Thanks!

[iwik]

Just make sure the pot is a wire wound one, has to be able to take Bulb current.
Les

[tcane]

Hi All,

Nice Stuff Ben! From where did you get it?

The last days im interfacing the two Levers and it works now! Making a 3D Print and passing it in the socket of the lever. The Diameter for this is between 17mm and 18 mm depending on printer accuracy. Inside the Printe is a hole where i put an Axis aluminum rod at its end a gear sitting connected to the potti.
I think this Videos explain it better.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wB_YRMhTpyA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OKqoHLtSy0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9gVkpGR__c

For the Trimwheel-motorization i got some very nice inputs and it will be realized with a NEMA 17 14:1 Planet Geare, HKT22 optical Encoder that back sitting on the stepper and a Arduino with LUA Script. The Encoder Problem with the 0 Position is no problem because the original Trimwheelconstruction has an end stop on each side, so i can programming an initializing for that.

Cheers
Florian

[OmniAtlas]

Just make sure the pot is a wire wound one, has to be able to take Bulb current.
Les

Hi Les, IT WORKS.



I am very surprised this 16 year old piece of equipment is functioning....Amazing bringing it back to life. I believe the 2 rheostats are there not for redundancy, but because 1 controls the left section underglade, and the otherside controls the right so the current doesn't drop in the bulb series.

Right now I have the bulbs wired in parallel running of one 12V controlled by the rheostat, it isn't too bad so I think I will leave it as it is.

The integral back lighting is also wired up -



It seems most of the bulbs are blown on the flood capt panel...I am having trouble removing the grub screws on one of the switches, so I can take the panel off and replace the bulbs...but I guess that will be another story, another day for this cockpit builder.