Just waiting on seat material now...

[Michael Carter]

I primed and painted it this morning and afternoon. I hate prepping for paint work because the prep usually takes longer than the actuall painting does.

I worked for around five hours in the shop doing the prep work and a dust coat of primer for last minute filling and sanding. This morning I did a final inspection and tacked it off and grabbed the rattle cans.

Material is on order and should show up around Wednesday or Thursday of next week.

Hope you all in the States have a safe and happy Labor Day weekend.

[Joe Cygan]

Awesome work Michael!

[Westozy]

Your finishing of timber is outstanding Michael, I really have to pick your brains on how you do it. I have to make 4 sets of A320 trim wheels out of MDF and want to achieve a black 'plastic' finish on them like the ones Brian Williamson made.

Gwyn

[Michael Carter]

Thank Joe, sorry I couldn't wait for yours. I know with your skills it will blow this one away.

[Michael Carter]

Hi Gwyn, the secret to finishing wood to look like metal is auto body glazing. It's used as a final filler for minor imperfections after bodywork is completed.

The wood soaks this stuff up well and the adhesion properties on wood is better than it is on metal. After an application of glaze coat, allow it to dry for about 20 minutes. Less if you are working outside in the sun with low humidity. Sand that off and look for darker spots that you have filled. Those are still low spots that have to be filled and sanded again.

You shouldn't have much of a problem with MFD as there is no grain to fill. But, MFD soakes up paint so you will have to fill edges and minor scratches. I use Krylon etching primer for all of my projects. It adhears well to wood (and aluminum), sands easily and the fill properties are fair (but it's not considered a fill primer). It sands very well without clogging even on a random orbital sander.

I always use a finish grit of 800 on the final coat of primer and then wipe with a terry cloth and then lightly with a tack rag.

I usually use two medium coats of pain allowing them to dry 15 minutes between coats. The final coat is sprayed very wet to get a smooth and consistant finish. The brand of paint you choose will determine how wet you can spray it without it running or flash drying as it hits the surface. You have to get to know the paint you use and use it consistantly so you can judge how to apply with repeatability.

[Michael Carter]

I forgot to add, that when you finish your trim wheels, mount them on something in your vise that you can rotate them on.

I used an acrylic laquer on mine and they look like glass. Just make sure they are rotating as you hose 'em down.

[Westozy]

Thanks Mike, I've copied and pasted all of that! I was going to make sort of a potters wheel to paint circular parts on, I have a couple of 3 piece 2" thrust bearings in the shed which will be perfect for the job. I'll have a go at the first pair of trim wheels myself to see what result I get, if it's average, I'll sub out the job to a mate who is a french polisher.

Cheers, Gwyn

[Bob Reed]

Hey BSW you using Green or Red glaze?

[W9XE/Project777]

Michael

Your seats are really coming along nicely. Great to see a project that most any builder can make that's on a budget. Look forward to seeing the final product.

Great comments for Gwyn, I am sure others will take note of this. I watch a lot of American Hotrod and I see them using the filler in all there projects. Kind of explains a lot when it comes to the finish.

You can be proud of this work

[Michael Carter]

The glaze is red.